Annemarie Börlind Mild Cleansing Emulsion

Консилер Chanel обладает довольно легкой текстурой и легко распределяется по коже. Правда, кисточка себя показала не с лучшей стороны – лучше использовать другую.

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Category

Skin type

1. DEHYDRATED SKIN
2. DRY SKIN
3. SENSITIVE SKIN
4. MATURE SKIN
5. OILY & ACNE-PRONE SKIN
6. COMBINATION SKIN
7. YOUNG SKIN
8. NORMAL SKIN
9. FOR ALL SKIN TYPES

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ANNEMARIE BÖRLIND stands for natural cosmetics with proven efficacy, which we develop from singular raw materials through innovative sustainable action.

• With Plant Extracts
  from certified organic farming (kbA)
• own deep spring water
• Efficacy and skin-compatibility scientifically confirmed. confirmed efficacy
• Free of Animal Extracts

Annemarie Börlind məhsullarını necə sifariş edə bilərəm?

Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.

It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.

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Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside – putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.

One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.

What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0

It’s a sweet tasting sugar substitute that helps your skin to hold onto water when used in cosmetic products. It also helps to thicken up products and give them a bit more slip.

What-it-does: emollient

A coconut or palm kernel oil derived, fast spreading emollient liquid that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It is mild for sensitive skin, leaves a light and dry skin feel and is readily biodegradable.

Simply alcohol refers to ethanol and it’s a pretty controversial ingredient. It has many instant benefits: it’s a great solvent, penetration enhancer, creates cosmetically elegant, light formulas, great astringent and antimicrobial. No wonder it’s popular in toners and oily skin formulas.

The downside is that it can be very drying if it’s in the first few ingredients on an ingredient list.

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Some experts even think that regular exposure to alcohol damages skin barrier and causes inflammation though it’s a debated opinion. If you wanna know more, we wrote a more detailed explanation about what’s the deal with alcohol in skincare products at alcohol denat. (it’s also alcohol, but with some additives to make sure no one drinks it).

Also-called: Shea Butter | What-it-does: emollient, viscosity controlling

Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter. It’s probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or Karite Trees and used as a magic moisturizer and emollient.

But it’s not only a simple emollient, it regenerates and soothes the skin, protects it from external factors (such as UV rays or wind) and is also rich in antioxidants (among others vitamin A, E, F, quercetin and epigallocatechin gallate). If you are looking for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to beat.

What-it-does: emulsifying

We don’t have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: emollient, solvent

We don’t have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: emulsifying | Irritancy: 1 | Comedogenicity: 0

A popular, vegetable-derived oil-loving emulsifier that helps water to mix with oil. In itself, it is suitable for water-in-oil emulsions (where water droplets are dispersed in oil), but it is more often used as a co-emulsifier next to other, water-loving emulsifiers.

Chemically speaking, it comes from the attachment of sorbitan (a dehydrated sorbitol (sugar) molecule) with the fatty acid Stearic Acid, that creates a partly water (the sorbitan part) and partly oil soluble (stearic part) molecule.

What-it-does: absorbent/mattifier

We don’t have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Glycerol | What-it-does: skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0

• A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
• A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
• Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
• Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
• High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin

What-it-does: surfactant/cleansing

A mild amino acid based surfactant with great foaming properties. Can be used also for sensitive or baby skin.

What-it-does: emollient, emulsifying | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 1-2

A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth.

Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fatty acid molecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, “green” process that is similar to soap making. It’s readily biodegradable.

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It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. As cosmetic chemist Colins writes it, “its safety really is beyond any doubt”.

What-it-does: emollient

A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type and easy to formulate with. No wonder it’s popular.

Also-called: Jojoba Oil | What-it-does: emollient | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0-2

Jojoba is a drought resistant evergreen shrub native to South-western North America. It’s known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil).

At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it’s nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically – or rather chemically – it’s not an oil but a wax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy).

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So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides: one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are all triglycerides. Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (be broken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) – this happens basically when we eat fats or oils and our body generates energy from it.

Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give us people environmental protection.

So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. Like crazy stable. Even if you heat it to 370 C (698 F) for 96 hours, it does not budge. (Many plant oils tend to go off pretty quickly). If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years.

Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. Acne.org has this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to “trick” the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have “skin balancing” properties for oily skin.

Third, jojoba oil moisturizes the skin through a unique dual action: on the one hand, it mixes with sebum and forms a thin, non-greasy, semi-occlusive layer; on the other hand, it absorbs into the skin through pores and hair follicles then diffuses into the intercellular spaces of the outer layer of the skin to make it soft and supple.

On balance, the point is this: in contrast to real plant oils, wax esters were designed by Mother Nature to stay on the surface and form a protective, moisturizing barrier and jojoba oil being a wax ester is uniquely excellent at doing that.

«Химия» против природы: консилер Chanel vs Annemarie Börlind

Увы, но по части различных маскирующих средств натуральная косметика заметно отстает. Стоит посмотреть на ассортимент профессиональной марки и сразу становится ясно, что, кроме химии, предстоит изучать еще и сочетание цветов, ведь фиолетовые, желтые и зеленые корректоры тоже зачем-то нужны. Но сегодня мы поговорим об основе основ – консилере.

Чаще всего консилер используется для маскировки темных кругов под глазами, но, если набить руку и угадать с цветом, то им можно замаскировать и другие проблемные участки. Так что если вы выбираете себе маскирующее средство, то начните именно с консилера.

Продолжая наш проект «Химия против Природы», мы решили сравнить два консилера. Натуральную косметику сегодня представляет Annemarie Börlind, а за «ненатуральную» отвечает Chanel. Начнем?

Внешний вид

Chanel

Тонкий и аккуратный черный флакон с консилером выполнен в узнаваемом для Chanel стиле. На выбор марка предлагает три оттенка средства.

Annemarie Börlind

Флакон Annemarie Börlind нам понравился даже больше. Более узкий и длинный флакон смотрится по-настоящему роскошно. Средство представлено в двух оттенках.

Обещания производителей

Chanel

Корректирующий карандаш улучшает цвет лица, осветляет темные круги под глазами. Легкая и нежная текстура средства отлично справится с коррекцией лица.

Annemarie Börlind

Светоотражающий кремовый консилер маскирует темные круги под глазами и делает сияющими даже уставшие глаза.

Состав

Chanel

Нельзя сказать, что мы успели протестировать состав всех люксовых марок. Тем не менее, пока что лишь Chanel были замечены в использовании парабенов в составе своих средств. Кстати, среди всего прочего, парабены есть и в консилере – Methylparaben и Propylparaben.

Annemarie Börlind

Основательница марки уверена в том, что в косметику нельзя добавлять то, что вы не были бы готовы съесть. Кроме того, природа и так дала нам все самое необходимое. Нужно лишь открыть ее тайны. Состав каждого средства Annemarie Börlind эту истину подтверждает – ни силиконов, ни парабенов, ни ПЕГ, ни других потенциально опасных компонентов в составе средства нет.

Текстура

Chanel

Консилер Chanel обладает довольно легкой текстурой и легко распределяется по коже. Правда, кисточка себя показала не с лучшей стороны – лучше использовать другую.

Annemarie Börlind

Annemarie Börlind сначала смущает своей довольно тяжелой текстурой. Очень важно не переборщить со средством, начав с небольшого количества.

Эффект и стойкость

Chanel

Сказать, что Chanel идеально маскирует темные круги, было бы обманом. Средство лучше использовать для осветления некоторых участков кожи, но серьезные дефекты консилер не замаскирует. Кроме того, через пару часов после нанесения консилер забивается в складки кожи и лишь подчеркивает морщины.

Annemarie Börlind

Плотная текстура консилера позволяет скрыть больше недостатков. Если наносить средство аккуратно и понемногу, хорошо растушевывая, то консилер ляжет идеально, хорошо замаскирует темные круги, не забьется в складки и отлично продержится весь день. Кстати, обладательницы проблемной кожи могут не переживать из-за текстуры: натуральные средства не закупоривают поры и не приводят к возникновению новых воспалений, позволяя коже дышать и ухаживая за ней.

Цена

Chanel – 2029 рублей

Annemarie Börlind – 1500 рублей

Вердикт Fancy Journal

Консилер Chanel не порадовал нас ни своими маскирующими способностями, ни составом. А вот маскирующее средство Annemarie Börlind действительно оказалось отличным – в составе нет сомнительных компонентов, а эффективность средства превзошла все наши ожидания.